Friday, April 6, 2007

Yogyakarta and Central Java

Yogyakarta and Central Java are the heartland of the Javanese, Indonesia's largest ethnic group. Here, you will see awe-inspiring stone as well as the dance, music, painting and batik of the court and of the many artists who have been drawn to the town.

In Yogya, most areas of interest centre around Jalan Malioboro, whose wide, canopied sidewalks offer shelter from the mid-afternoon heat and by night turn into a colourful street market where you can buy leather goods, textiles, batiks, wayang puppets and much more. Delicious food in many styles and cuisines is available throughout Yogya but the city is most famous for lesehan-meals of local delicacies taken sitting on straw mats in simple restaurants or directly on the sidewalk. Close to the extraordinary monuments of Borobudur and Prambanan, the silversmiths'village of Kota Cede and the beaches at Parangtritis, Yogyakarta offers a feast of culture and history plus nature in all her majesty, from rumbling volcanoes to pounding surf. Yogyakarta is well served by a wide selection of accommodation, suitable for anyone from a Head of State to a young backpacker.

Kraton: The Royal Palace
The Javanese regard Java as the centre of the world, and the kraton (royal palace) as its heart. The Yogya kraton, home of the current Sultan, Hamengkubuwono X, is open to the public and is the city's premier tourist attraction. Entering the palace is like stepping back in time, into a place where a moment of past glory is preserved like a butterfly caught in amber. The layout of the royal complex, with open courtyards surrounding low pavilions and the keraton at the centre, is a microcosmic representation of the world. Every component of the structure or grounds is charged with mystic significance. The Javanese believe that by arranging the kraton's components in harmony, the order and harmony of the universe could be main­tained. Attached to the kraton complex is Taman Sari, a two-century-old water palace and pleasure garden built by Yogyakarta's first Sultan for his wives and concubines. The narrow alleys near the kraton walls which once housed the families of palace retainers, now support a vibrant colony of batik artists and artisans.

Silver City
Virtually untouched by modernity, the silver trade is still thriving in the picturesque centre of Kota Gede, just seven kilometres out of the city centre. Silver workshops have existed here since the 16th century, and to the present day not much has changed in production methods.
Most of the small showrooms have a workshop attached. This is where craftsmen and women apply their expertise in producing jewellery, ornaments and household cutlery, a process consisting of six separate stages. First, the pure silver beads, usually mined in West Java, are melted and mixed with copper and set in bars. The bar is then hammered to the correct thickness for the intended product. It is then forged into shape.

The shaped piece is then carved and engraved with traditional motifs and designs, and all different parts are subsequently assembled into the final design. The object is then roughened with sandpaper, washed in warm alum water and polished until it achieves the desired shine. The finished object is then dried in the sun covered by sawdust to avoid damage. Being so close to Yogya, the silver shops at Kota Gede are definitely worth a visit. Quite apart from being a museum of living local history, you will also find some superb souvenirs and gifts at out-of-town prices.

Merapi
To the North East of Yogyakarta is the famous Merapi, one of Indonesia's most active volcanoes. Safety allowing, the energetic may wish to try the guided night climb from Kaliurang resort. It takes a few hours, and arriving in the early hours will offer views of the sunrise over the smoking caldera. The Volcano Observation post in Jrakah, near Selo, is the best place to observe the spewing beast from a safe distance. Going beyond this point is often not an option for safety reasons. Occasionally the volcano belches a large cloud of hot sulphurous gas which literally roasts villages.

Museum of Indonesian Fine Arts
Yogyakarta is well-known as one of Indonesia's art centres, and within an hour's drive from the city lies the impressive Haji Widayat Museum, with over 3,000m of space devoted to the subject. It is located at Sawitan, in the town of Mungkid just a few km from Borobudur. The Museum opens daily (not Monday) from 9.00 am - 4.00 pm.

Temples at Prambanan
Situated in Klaten, on the road between Yoyakarta and Solo, these Hindu temples were built by the Sanjaya Dynasty in the ninth century. There are three temples, representing the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Particularly interesting are the Ramayana perform­ances which take place on full moon from May to October.

Borobudur Temple
Built during the 9th century by the rulers of the Syailendra dynasty, this massive stupa is the largest Buddhist monument in the world. It was left to ruin as the dynasty fell apart, and only recognised as a global treasure by Stamford Raffles in 1 814. It has subsequently been restored to its former glory - its 10 exquisitely carved levels reaching 42 m in height. Borobudur's 40km North West of Yogyakarta, near Mungkid in the Magelang regency. Two Hindu temples - Candi Mendut and Candi Pawon - are also conveniently on route from Yogyakarta to Borobudur.

Solo
Surakarta, or Solo, is the second city of the Javanese cultural heart­land. Although smaller than Yogyakarta, Solo is a centre of the arts and home to two keraton, or royal palaces. The larger, Keraton Kasunanan, is a large and fascinating complex which easily deserves a full day visit. The junior branch of the Solo royal family occupies Pura Mangkunegaran, an attractive, more intimate complex which blends European elegance with Javanese architectural styles. In Solo, you'll find a huge textile market, a bird market and flea market, plus a choice of dance and cultural performances. (Source : article and photo by Garuda-Indonesia.Com magazine)

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